Check the documentation for your soldering station, if your soldering station doesn’t have any documentation you can go with the melting point of the solder itself plus some overhead.
But as illustrated below, it can get a little complicated, if you’re doing a lot of soldering with the same solder you’ll experiment and figure out what’s good for you
Ideally you want to use the lowest temperature you can get away with, using too much temperature can potentially shorten the lifespan of your soldering tips, and potentially damage the printed circuit board.
Get a testing board, any old board will do, and do some soldering and desoldering at different temperatures.
lets look at the melting points of common solders:
Tin/Lead (Sn63/Pb37) - 183°C
SAC 305 (Sn/Ag3.0/Cu0.5) - 220°C
SN100 (Sn) - 232°C
Now let’s add the 50°C we need for making a good soldering connection:
Tin/Lead: 183°C + 50°C = 233°C
SAC 305: 220°C + 50°C = 270°C
SN100: 232°C + 50°C = 282°C
We now need to consider the type of soldering station we are using…Soldering Station which has very good performance, we should add approximately 100°C as the heat reserve for quick thermal recovery. The resulting temperature settings are:
Check the documentation for your soldering station, if your soldering station doesn’t have any documentation you can go with the melting point of the solder itself plus some overhead.
But as illustrated below, it can get a little complicated, if you’re doing a lot of soldering with the same solder you’ll experiment and figure out what’s good for you
Ideally you want to use the lowest temperature you can get away with, using too much temperature can potentially shorten the lifespan of your soldering tips, and potentially damage the printed circuit board.
Get a testing board, any old board will do, and do some soldering and desoldering at different temperatures.
https://kb.hakkousa.com/KnowledgebaseArticle10297.aspx
350°C has been my sweet spot with my hakko soldering station
the 888 dial set to 12-o-clock or one-o-clock lol