White list firewall

Mixture of Experts

dumbass for president

We need a way to make self hosting super easy without needing additional infrastructure. Like use my account here with my broad spectrum of posts and comments as initial credentials for a distributed DNS name and certificate authority combined with a preconfigured ISO for a Rπ or similar hardware. The whole thing should not take manual intervention for automatically updating and should just run any federated services. Then places like LW are a bridge for people to migrate to their own distributed hosting even when they lack the interest or chops to self host. I don’t see why we need to rely on the infrastructure of the old internet as a barrier to entry. I bet there are an order of magnitude more people that would toss a Rπ on their network and self host if it was made super easy, did not require manual intervention, and does not dump them into the spaghetti of networking, OS, and server configuration/security. Federated self hosting should be as simple as using a mobile app to save and view pictures or browse the internet.

OpenAI’s mission statement is also in their name. The fact that they have a proprietary product that is not open source is criminal and should be sued out of existence. They are now just like the Sun Micro after Apache was made open sourced; irrelevant they just haven’t gotten the memo yet. No company can compete against the whole world.

Planck could not scale small enough.

You can use the fedora direct sources to search their discourse forum. Google and Microsoft are likely warping your search results intentionally to drive you back onto Windows. Search is not deterministic any more. It is individually targeted.

I have never used KDE much, so I have no idea. You are probably looking for KDE settings. These would likely be part of gsettings in GNOME. That is not really a fedora thing. You need to look in the KDE documentation. This is the kind of thing that gets easier with time but can be frustrating at first.

Sorry I’m not more helpful than this. It is 2am in California and I didn’t want to leave you with no replies at all.

MM ≠ MM !!!

Offer

You generally want to use a trusted protection module (TPM) chip like what is on most current computers and Pixel phones. The thing to understand about the TPM chips is that they have a set of unique internal keys that cannot be accessed at all. These keys are used to hash against and create other keys. The inaccessibility of this unique keyset is the critical factor. If you store keys in any regular memory, you are taking a chance.

Maybe check out Joe Grand’s YT stuff. He has posted about hacking legit keys to recover large crypto amounts. Joe is behind the JTAGulator, if you have ever seen that one, and was a famous child hacker going by “Kingpin.”

I recall reading somewhere about a software implementation of TPM for secure boot, but I didn’t look into it very deeply and do not recall where I read about it. Probably on Gentoo, Arch, or maybe in the book Beyond Bios ^(terrible)

Andrew Huang used to have stuff up on YT that would be relevant to real security of such a device, but you usually need to know where he wrote articles to find links because most of his stuff isn’t publicly listed on YT. He has also removed a good bit over the years when certain exploits are unfixable like accessing the 8051 microcontroller built into most SD cards and running transparently. Andrew is the author of Hacking the Xbox which involved basically a man in the middle attack on a high speed PCIE (IIRC) connection.

It would be a ton of work to try to reverse engineer what you have created and implemented in such a device. Unless you’re storing millions, it is probably not something anyone is going to mess with.

They have never kicked me and I haven’t had to reapply, but I don’t get an actual doctor and have some idiotic plan with walk in clinics.

deleted by creator

Luigi deserves a larger shrine

This got me looking at the historule. lol

I missed the drama, but I don’t care. Mods are janitors. Communities can’t be owned unless only 1 person has posted within them. I am a janitor for 3d printing at LW. I have every right to attempt to start a 3d printing community elsewhere but never to lock, move, or hold the community hostage.

I also think the internet in general tends to fail at acknowledging mistakes, and how we are all capable of growth, flux, or regression.

You can’t change the past. So worrying about it does no good. Words and intentions are worthless, actions are what matter. So be the best version of yourself now and in the future.

Nowhere is ideologically homogeneous. Stupidity is always a majority and the easiest to amplify.

The problems here are far more complex.

I tried to relate the limited niche where having closer together gearing makes a noticeable difference. Unless you are operating in a very small margin, you will never notice having close together gearing. I only ever noticed the difference with racing where I’m on the edge of blowing up throughout the entire race and happen to feel like I’m on a knife’s edge and spinning a little too fast or slow to hang on for more than a few minutes, and comparing times on a given route and pulling a few minutes out of an hours long route. In all other instances, having more range has been better for me. So I prefer to have as wide as my drivetrain supports. If I have any choice, I prefer a tighter set of low gears and a bailout final cassette cog.

Sorry if the abstraction is hard to ground in your understanding. Broadly speaking, this is how I setup any bike. I wouldn’t worry about the total, and would start with the widest cassette that will work with your current setup. Then I would only change the front chainring if you still feel a lack of top speed. In my experience, only the standard combinations and matched group sets shift really well at a racing or top performance level. The more unconventional setups can be made to work reliably but shift speed and shifting under load become lower quality in ways that are not worth the compromise. There are subtle elements like how the front derailleur cable is routed that are designed for a specific combination. While it may seem trivial, in practice I have seen issues from moving a derailleur up or down significantly beyond normalcy, or changing a chain line, or even tooth profiles between models of chainrings.

Back in the days before indexed shifting, people often played a lot more with gearing, but the issues are different with friction shifting, as are the shifting performance and expectations. This is why people do not generally alter gearing in the same way any more.

The only time I rode with close gearing was crit racing. I rode standard 53/39 11-28 through the 8-11 speed eras on road most of the time. That worked well for pretty much everywhere for me. I can get away with never using my inner ring so long as the slopes stay below 6 degrees. When I first started commuting hardcore, I rode a 55/39 with a dura ace triple FD and a range of everything from 11-21 - 11/23 - 11/25 - 11/28.

You need to know your rear derailleur capacity to know what will potentially fit.

Unless you’re trying to improve your times on a 66 mile round trip daily commute to work, or racing where the differences between riders is miniscule and the perfect gear to sit on a wheel might make of break your race, I would go for the widest possible range your FD/RD can handle. You’ll never regret having the extra easier or harder gear to pedal in. If you are never pedaling down hill or in a tailwind, skip the hardest end. If you never see a climb skip the easier. If you like to explore and go wherever life takes you, keep your range as wide as possible. If you do not have the ideal comfortable gear, spin the lighter one faster and consider it cadence training. If you keep at it, within a few weeks you will begin to have a faster average cadence. This is part of race training as higher cadences are more efficient overall. Some people train on a fixed gear or single speed at times to push themselves to higher cadences in unique ways.